Installing an Electrical Outlet Anywhere

Adding receptacles isn't overly complicated, but there are facts you should know in order to stay safe and code compliant. Longtime electrician Rune Eriksen shares his advice, tips and handy techniques to help you deal with wiring scenarios you may encounter.

Sawing through screw-driver starter holes | Construction Pro Tips
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Make a starter hole with a screwdriver

Drywall keyhole saws are often called “jab saws” because they can be used to jab through drywall to start a hole. But our expert finds that he damages less drywall when he makes a couple of starter holes in opposite corners with a skinny, flat head screwdriver. When you're cutting, let the saw do the work. Over-aggressive sawing can tear the paper on the back side, which will weaken the drywall significantly. It's important to stay inside the lines; a hole that's too big will be unusable. If a hole ends up too small, you can carve away at the edges with a utility knife.

Finding a wall cavity with a clothes hanger | Construction Pro Tips
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Find the wall cavity with a clothes hanger

When you're pulling power up from an unfinished basement, a simple way to figure out where to drill the hole for the new cable is to drill a small “finder” hole near the base of the wall and stick a length of wire clothes hanger down through the hole. Our expert uses a wire cutter to make a 45-degree cut and actually uses the cut end to do the drilling. The hanger will bore through carpeting, hardwood floors, subfloor and even drywall. If you're going into the attic, poke the hanger through, and then go downstairs and measure over about 3-1/2 in. (3/4-in. quarter round, 1/2 in. base trim, 1/2-in. drywall and half the width of a 2x4 = 3-1/2 in.). That’s where to drill your new hole.

Stripping cables before they are pulled | Construction Pro Tips
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Strip cables before pulling them

It's a lot easier to remove the sheathing from the cables before you install the box. Make sure there's at least 1/4 in. of the sheathing pulled inside the box beyond the cable clamp. And at least 6 in. of wire should be left in the box, measured from the front edge of the box opening. After the box is installed, bend the end of the wires using the hole on your wire stripper.

Cutting holes in tile with a rotary tool | Construction Pro Tips
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Cut holes in tile with a rotary tool

A rotary tool is a great, safe way to cut through tile. Set the depth of the tile-cutting bit shallow to avoid hitting plumbing or wires in the wall cavity. Whenever possible, use grout lines for two sides of the hole because they're much easier to cut through. Drill starter holes in two opposite corners with a glass-and-tile drill bit.

"Old Work" Electrical Boxes | Construction Pro Tips
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"Old Work" boxes

There are several kinds of “old work” boxes, sometimes called “remodel” boxes. Some are easier to find than others (but all are available online), and some are easier to install and more durable (details below). Instead of being nailed to a stud, “old work” boxes are clamped onto the drywall. Here are a few of the most common styles:

Folding wires into the back of an electrical box | Construction Pro Tips
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Fold wires into the box

Our expert connects all the wires together and then runs short individual wires (pigtails) to the receptacle. Pigtails also ensure that the rest of the circuit remains energized downstream even if this receptacle fails. Try to fold all the wires as neatly as you can and push them into the back of the box. Cramming receptacles into a crowded box can result in loose connections and damaged wire insulation, which can cause a fire.

Two wires with different gauges | Construction Pro Tips
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Use the same gauge wire

If you're pulling wire from a circuit that has 12-gauge wire, don't install 14-gauge wire to the new receptacle or vice versa. The new receptacle should be wired with the same gauge wire as the source.

Trimming an electrical boxes metal support | Construction Pro Tips
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Trim metal supports

Our expert prefers working with the “old work” boxes with metal flanges. They provide more support than the boxes with flip-out wings. One drawback of these boxes is they aren't made for thicker walls. So when you need to add a receptacle to a wall with drywall and thick wainscoting, we recommend cutting about 3/4 in. off both metal flanges with aviator snips before installing it. Make straight cuts or the box will end up crooked in the hole.

An outlet attached to the bare framing | Construction Pro Tips
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Where to get power

When you're choosing which circuit to add on to, the ease of pulling the wire to the new receptacle will likely be the most important factor. Here are some acceptable options.

A labeled circuit breaker | Construction Pro Tips
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AFCI protection for the whole circuit

When you're pulling power from a source other than a receptacle (such as a light fixture or smoke detector), the new cable and receptacle will need to be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protected. If there are no receptacles upstream where you could install an AFCI-type receptacle, you have no choice but to protect the entire circuit by installing an AFCI circuit breaker at the panel.

Two electrical boxes connected to each other | Construction Pro Tips
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Install an AFCI receptacle at the source

Newer electrical codes require arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protection for all branch circuits supplying receptacles, switches, light fixtures, smoke detectors, etc., in essentially all locations in the dwelling except bathrooms, basement storage areas and garages. AFCI circuit breakers and receptacles are designed to detect dangerous, abnormal arcing in branch circuits and cut off the power before a fire can start.

A diagram showing how to calculate box size | Construction Pro Tips
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How to calculate electrical box size

Use this chart to determine the correct electrical box size.

A standard outlet and a tamper resistant outlet | Construction Pro Tips
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Install tamper-resistant receptacles

Tamper-resistant receptacles are designed to help prevent children from shoving a metal object into an outlet. Tamper-resistant receptacles are now required at all indoor and outdoor locations for dwelling units.

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