Wonderful Woodworking Tips

Mark the grit side

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Mark the grit

Festool sanding pads are great... they just don't have the grit marked on all the sides. A black marker fixes that. Now I can easily determine what pad to grab.

Submitted by Travis Collins (@toolsbydesign)

A post shared by Michael Wiebe (@beavercreekcustoms) on Nov 14, 2017 at 5:12am PST

2 / 11

Sand tight spaces

Did a bunch of sanding yesterday, and was doing the inside of these boxes. Figured I’d film a little tip video on how I sand tight spaces. Basically, glue some sand paper to a piece of wood that will reach where you need it to. Really glad I set this up in away that you can’t see what I’m doing when I’m actually using it haha. A simple tip, but might help someone out in a pinch. @thegorillagluecompany worked really well for this!

Submitted by Michael Wiebe (@beavercreekcustoms)

Pencil Sander

3 / 11

Fine lines for fine cuts

I always keep a piece of sandpaper under my chopsaw to keep a fine point people.......fine lines make for fine cuts!

Submitted by Jeff West (@westcowoodworks)

A post shared by ▫️Dettmore Home Improvements▫️ (@dettmore101) on Nov 6, 2017 at 2:18pm PST

4 / 11

Plug template

Just making some 1" balau plugs for our benches. I use a plug cutter 9/10 of the way through and finish them off with the table saw. That way I don't have to fuss around with prying each plug from the cutting bit.

Submitted by @dettmore101

A post shared by Northwest Builder / Seth (@nwbuilder) on Nov 6, 2017 at 7:29pm PST

5 / 11

Mark a reference

Sometimes when I’m making a lot of the same cuts it’s easy to just make a mark on the fence of your saw with a pencil for a quick line up.

Submitted by Seth (@nwbuilder)

A post shared by Don Challis (@don_challis) on Oct 20, 2017 at 2:26pm PDT

6 / 11

A veneer with backbone

Some kerf action. We’re pretty much making a veneer that has some backbone. This still works if you don’t cut all the way down through so that one edge is still intact. It will give you a much easier time when fitting a skirt or apron that will be seen from the top or bottom.

Submitted by Don Challis (@don_challis)

Dowel Pinch

7 / 11

Fluting dowels

Shop tip: when using dowels to pin joints, you can flute them yourself by squeezing them with a pair of pliers part way along their length and tapping them through. If the dowel joint is exposed, just make sure the end of the dowel that will be inserted first is facing up so the fluting doesn't show at the surface. I also ease the leading edge on some sandpaper for easier insertion and to keep track of which end is which.
In case you're wondering why dowels are often fluted, it's to avoid creating a hydraulic lock. It occurs when the glue in the dowel hole gets trapped at the bottom instead of flowing up and around the dowel pin as it gets tapped home. Hydraulic lock also prevents the dowel from bottoming out in the hole, weakening the joint and wasting dowel stock. Fluting lets both the glue and the dowel get where they need to be.

Submitted by Ryan Cheney (@mountaintopjoinershop)

A post shared by ▫️Dettmore Home Improvements▫️ (@dettmore101) on Nov 16, 2017 at 2:51pm PST

8 / 11

Raise your fence

A raised fence or stop block helps insure that sawdust and woodchips won't hold the workpiece out of position. It's a simple but useful trick we employ to keep our parts consistent.

Submitted by @dettmore101

9 / 11

The right stance

Sometimes it's easier to get low than it is to get the workpiece up high. From the waist down it feels a lot like a martial arts stance and, according to the Googles, it is. In karate, it's called zenkutsu. So, ne'er-do-wells ought to exercise caution when approaching with ill intent while I'm wielding a bow saw because I'm prepared for that. For real. I'll fret 'em up. I'll scroll their roll. I'll saw 'em raw. So yeah, this is likely the closest I'll ever get to Japanese style woodworking.

Submitted by Ryan Cheney (@mountaintopjoinershop)

A post shared by Michael Wiebe (@beavercreekcustoms) on Nov 13, 2017 at 5:34am PST

10 / 11

Trimming legs

Trimming up the top and bottom of these legs. When I glued the X together, I set it up so the outside points on the top were exactly where I needed them, so I could line my track up to those points and cut the angle. I left extra length on the bottom, and just measured down so the centre of the X was in the middle and cut my line on the bottom. This is sped up a little, but according to this clip it took me 1:46 to do one leg. I’m loving this track saw.

Submitted by Michael Wiebe (@beavercreekcustoms)

A post shared by John Stene (@stenewoodwork) on Nov 11, 2017 at 5:56am PST

11 / 11

Ultra-thin shims

This is how I make my shims ultra thin for minute leveling adjustments. I use this Stanley No. 78 fillister plane, mostly because I don’t have a decent block plane. We buy cedar shingles at the depot and cut them into 7/8” strips for shims, and I plane them when I need them thin. I also the aromatic cedar shavings as deodorant when I forget my old spice in the morning....but that’s beside the point... I don’t know where I’m going with this.

Submitted by John Stene (@stenewoodwork)